Annie Leibovitz, American portrait photographer, brought the story of Alice in Wonderland to
life in one of the most influential fashion photography shoots in history. Leibovitz worked
alongside fashion editor, Grace Coodington, to come up with one of V ogue’s most famous
editorial shoots. Coodington was the only one who could direct a group of such influential
people, and Leibovitz was the only one who could take a fantasy like this and bring it to life.
Together they were unstoppable.
Natalia V odianova, Russian Model, starred in the shoot as Alice, with 13 of the early 2000s' most
influential designers making up the rest of the cast. John Galliano as the Queen of Hearts, Jean
Paul Gaultier as the Cheshire Cat, Marc Jacobs as the Caterpillar, Donatella V ersace as the
Griffin, Tom Ford as the White Rabbit and an array of others. The most interesting aspect of the
shoot was Anna Wintour's decision to cast the designers as the characters. Each designer was
asked to create a unique dress for Natalia to wear. She was photographed in each one, alongside
its designer. The hope was for the photos to resemble John Tenniel’s original drawings for Lewis
Carroll’s book.
Coodington was the one who wanted to take it to V ogue. She had a vision, and there was not a
single person on the shoot who didn't trust her to execute it perfectly. Alice was originally
imagined as an innocent, naive girl, but ended up becoming a majestic portrayal of a young
woman. V odianova was able to embody different versions of Alice through the workings of so
many unique designers.
Leobivtz is known most famously for her shots of celebrities. The most well known being: John
Lennon and Y oko Ono before Lennon’s death, Pregnant Demi Moore for V anity Fair, Caitlyn
Jenner’s debut photo and a slew of others. In an interview with Financial Review, Leobivtz said
she never thought of herself as a fashion photographer. In a way, that played a big part in her
ability to create such an outstanding editorial. She was able to bring in an outside perspective
that the industry hadn’t seen before. She began to develop her personal style; shooting in balck
and white. She focused on lighting and bold colors- which proved even more impressive since
color film was not available at that time. Through her time with V ogue, she learned how to create
intimate settings, which allowed her subjects to open up to her completely. This is how she was
able to capture such unique imagery without previously knowing her client.
Post production was almost as magical as the shoot itself. The images evoked a sense of childlike
wonder, the feeling that anything was possible, which is exactly how you should feel in a fantasy
world. “Today, I don’t think twice about taking something out, or moving or changing the
background. Fashion created a lot of artistic freedom, allowing me to step away from journalism
and be creative,” said Leibovitz, “Not being a fashion photographer allowed me to shoot with an
outside perspective. It felt like a special moment in time, working with such talented designers
doing what they do, at their best.” It was far more special than they ever imagined.
Coodington and Leibovitz’s Alice in Wonderland Editorial found its way into everything from
pop culture to folklore. It was a rare portrayal of what it felt like to be a young woman in the
early 2000s. Coodington told V ogue, “Everyone seems to remember it, those interested in
fashion at least, and people who read vogue. They remember it as a story.” As one of V ogue’s
biggest issues, the photos have made their way into the ‘fashion shoot hall of fame’. The magic
that Coodington and Leibovitz were able to create in this shoot could never be replicated today.
The world doesn’t think in the same way anymore. The complexity of the images, the ideas
behind them, the extraordinary photography. Not to mention how well everyone worked together.
It can never be done again. But isn’t that what makes it iconic? The knowledge that it can never
be recreated. Every photo has been given a narrative. They are an earnest stand to the test of
time. It was a clear sign that the times were changing. Leibovitz, with the help of Coodington,
was able to bring new perspectives and dimensions to fashion photography that the world hadn’t
seen before.
