Vivienne Westwood’s rebellious spirit roared back to life on Sunday at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, as the brand returned to the runway for the first time since 2016. Curated by the late designer’s husband and co-creative director Andreas Kronthaler, the collection celebrated both the male and female form, exhibiting a cohesive blend of traditional tailoring and true Italian style prints paired with statuesque silhouettes.
In a city where tradition meets avant-garde, Vivienne Westwood’s return to the runway was anything but quiet. With rebellion woven into every hem and history stitched into every silhouette, the runway became a stage for political flair and poetic tailoring. It wasn’t just fashion, it was a revival, a tribute, and a punk-fueled love letter to legacy. From sharp suiting to graphic prints that pulsed with meaning, the collection honored Westwood’s spirit with striking elegance.
Following the eponymous designer’s passing, Kronthaler’s official return paid homage to the decades of punk rebellion created by Westwood herself. Feminine styles were juxtaposed with rugby uniforms while exaggerated pointed suits introduced a punk take on traditional dandyism. Funnel neck trench coats were seen following suspenders and straw hats. Platform heels adorned with chunky buckles were reminiscent of the beloved collections famously worn by the likes of Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. The brand’s playful, creative spirit shone through leopard print coats, colorful pinstripes and graphic prints. One hero look displayed Garibaldi’s face staring out from a red T-shirt, a nod to the fiery rebellion his Redshirts led in unifying Italy and the disruption which fueled Westwood’s early career.
While Kronthaler incorporated many designs previously associated with Vivienne Westwood prior to the designer’s passing, his latest collection proved that there is potential for a shift in the brand’s aesthetic as it continues to grow under new direction. The show was held at a traditional caffetteria, leading the models out onto a marble floored side street, marking a strong return for the brand to the official Milan calendar.
